2) The KISS adjustment must be performed very carefully so as to touch the blade tooth, but not deflect it at all. The two most important things that need to be set perfectly on the jig are 1) The miter bar of the jig must fit perfectly in the miter slot of the saw, loose enough to slide easily, but with no side play and no rattle at all. It doesn't cut the joint quite as clean as the square tooth kerf of the first two blades, but on larger box joint patterns, this isn't quite as noticeable after assembly. I used my Freud dado blade set once with my I-Box jig when I wanted 3/4" joints. The square tooth profile is especially important when doing smaller box joints. It's kerf is 0.126, so very close to 1/8" that I use occasionally.
INCRA IBOX FULL
I have a Freud full kerf rip blade that also has the square tooth profile. I use a Freud SBOX8 blade set most of the time with my I-Box jig to make 1/4 & 3/8" joints. When you get it done "right", it's easy to use and does work great. I think now that it might be a good idea to initially use it the first time with the saw in "safe" mode. After getting it adjusted to where you think it's ready to use, make absolutely certain of clearances on every side before using it. Remember, "Kissing to closely" (somehow I remember hearing that before I bought my first table saw) can be costly to the tune of about $89 each time the brake is activated (don't ask me how I now). Also, if you're using it on a Sawstop make certain ALL adjustments having anything to do with 'Kissing" the blade are perfect.
As I finally came to realize, the instructions must be followed to a "T" especially centering the piece on the left hand side of the red knob.
I'm probably lying in that I just walked away disgusted from it the first couple of times I tried setting it up. I also went through the "miseries" when putting this whole thing together the first time. The single most important of the process is of course, the initial setup. Miter bar position adjustable up to 7-1/2" away from saw blades (edge of blade to center of miter slot) or up to 7-3/4" from routers (center of collet to center of miter slot).I agree with all of the previous statements. Exclusive INCRA GlideLOCK miter bar fits standard 3/4" x 3/8" miter slots with a 0.740" - 0.762" width adjustment range or is available in a version for Shopsmith machines. Reversible & reusable MDF sub fence dramatically reduces or eliminates tearout
The wide fence allows clamping lumber securely into position while cutting much better than hand-held boards, especially when joining small or large lumber (hand screw clamp not included) Works alongside the INCRA HingeCrafter to produce solid wood hinges Front and rear blade guards front guard also stabilizes boards vertically and is adjustable for 1/4" to 7/8" lumber thicknesses for box joints or even thicker for other applications Exclusive INCRA GlideLOCK miter bar fits standard 3/4" x 3/8" miter slots with a 0.740" - 0.762" adjustment range Exclusive dual-pitch lead screw mechanism for fast micro-adjusting and a broad 1/8" - 3/4" range of pin widths cut into lumber from 1/4" to 7/8" thick Reversible design works on either side of the cutter Use it on your table saw or router table to cut great looking box joints with a stacking-type dado blade, dedicated box joint blade set, or straight router bits The INCRA I-Box is a Taylor Design Group, Inc. If you've been looking to improve your shop's joinery capabilities with a fast, versatile, and easy to use method for producing box joints of all descriptions, the INCRA I-Box is what you've been waiting for. Nothing says "craftsmanship" like adding solid wood hinges to your projects, and the I-Box can be used in conjunction with the INCRA HingeCrafter to produce wooden hinges in four different barrel diameters and in lengths up to 10".
The Splined Box Joint is yet another INCRA-only decorative joint that's guaranteed to add wow-factor to your projects, and the I-Box can even be used to produce an unlimited variety of classic dentil mouldings! The advantages continue far beyond the basics: I-Box-exclusive joints like the Center Keyed Box Joint can be used to produce symmetric patterns on any width lumber, allowing you the flexibility to create joinery that matches existing project plans rather than altering board widths to fit the limited possibilities of traditional box joint jigs.
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